FAQs
Questions we get asked
General questions about pricing, estimates, insurance and scheduling are below. Questions specific to a service or a vehicle type are grouped underneath with a link through to the full page on that topic.
General
Where are you and what area do you serve?
The shop is at 23281 La Palma Ave, Yorba Linda, CA 92887. Every page on this site is written for Cypress, California, which is about 22 miles away, roughly about 25 minutes on the 91. There is no heavy-vehicle collision facility inside Cypress with a paint booth and frame rack sized for a 45 foot coach, which is why Cypress owners and fleet managers come here.
What does an estimate cost?
Collision and body estimates are $150. RV systems estimates are $150. In-depth diagnostics are $285 for the first hour. All three are credited back in full against an authorized repair, so the money goes into the work rather than into a walk-around. We charge because a real estimate on a large vehicle takes hours and frequently requires pulling panels, and a guess made in a parking lot is worth what it costs.
Why are your prices published when nobody else publishes theirs?
Because a customer who can reconcile their own invoice does not have to take our word for anything. Body and paint labor is $210 per hour, mechanical and electrical $260, diagnostics $285 and detail $95. Materials calculate at $55 per paint hour and $5 per body hour. Parts under $100 carry 100 percent markup and over $100 carry 35 percent. All of it is on the pricing page with the deposit schedule and card surcharge.
Do you work directly with insurance companies?
Yes, direct billing with every major carrier including Progressive, GEICO, State Farm, AAA SoCal, Mercury, Allstate, American Family, Wawanesa, National General, CSAA, Foremost, Liberty Mutual and Tesla. Under California Insurance Code section 758.5 you are not required to use a shop your insurer recommends, and most carrier-preferred shops are automotive shops without a frame rack rated for a coach chassis.
How soon can you start work?
Smaller body and paint work usually starts within one to two weeks. Structural and insurance work starts once the claim is approved and parts are secured, typically two to four weeks from the first call. On insurance jobs the longest wait is carrier approval rather than our schedule, and coach body panels are frequently made to order with lead times measured in months that no shop can shorten.
Do you offer mobile or roadside service?
No. All work is performed at the Yorba Linda facility. That is a deliberate choice rather than a limitation: the frame rack, the paint booth, the fabrication capability and the lift capacity that make this shop worth driving to do not fit in a van. If your vehicle is not drivable, call and we will talk through the tow.
What vehicles do you work on?
All years, all makes, all classes. Class A gas and diesel pusher motorhomes, Class B and C, bus conversions and skoolies, fifth wheels, travel trailers, toy haulers, pop-ups and truck campers, Sprinter and Transit and ProMaster vans, camper van conversions, box trucks, semis, flatbeds, reefers, school and transit buses, ambulances and fire apparatus, police and municipal fleet vehicles, refuse and utility trucks, Rivian R1T and R1S, electric delivery vans, and mobile business builds including food trucks and mobile clinics.
Do you do engine or drivetrain work?
No, and no DOT inspections either. This shop does body, paint, structural, fiberglass, electrical, plumbing, appliance, interior, fabrication and equipment work. Engine, transmission, aftertreatment and DOT inspection work needs your usual truck or RV mechanical shop. Saying so plainly saves you a call.
How do deposits work?
50 percent deposit at authorization on any job over $2,000. Additional 25 percent when parts arrive on any job over $10,000. Final balance is due at pickup. No vehicle leaves the property until it is paid in full. Special order parts require a 100 percent non-refundable deposit at the time of order because a made to order coach panel cannot be returned. A 3.5 percent surcharge applies to credit card payments over $1,000, passing through merchant fees on high ticket jobs. Paying by check or ACH avoids it.
Can I visit my vehicle during the repair?
Yes, with a call ahead so we can have it accessible and so you are not walking through an active bay unannounced. Owners of large custom builds frequently want to see the structure while it is open, which is entirely reasonable. We would rather you see it than wonder about it.
Services
Grouped by topic. Each block links through to the full page, which covers the process, the price range and the labor hours behind it.
Brake, Axle and Suspension Repair
How often should trailer wheel bearings be repacked?
Annually, or every 12,000 miles, whichever comes first. This is the maintenance item most commonly skipped and the one with the most serious consequences. A dry bearing overheats, seizes, and can separate the hub from the spindle at highway speed. It is also a common ignition source, which is why you see burnt-out trailers on the shoulder. It is inexpensive work and it prevents an expensive and dangerous failure.
Why do my trailer brakes grab or pull to one side?
Usually uneven adjustment, a contaminated shoe on one side from a leaking bearing seal, or a magnet that is worn or partially failed. Electric trailer brakes rely on both sides applying equally, so any imbalance shows up as pulling. It can also be the brake controller in the tow vehicle being set too aggressively, which is worth ruling out before dismantling anything.
Can a bent trailer axle be straightened?
Occasionally, and we are cautious about it. Axle tubes are heat treated and straightening can compromise that. On a modest bend in a heavy axle it can be done and measured. On anything significant, and on any axle where the spindle itself is bent, replacement is the correct answer, because an axle failure at speed on a loaded trailer is a serious event.
How much does this work cost?
Bearing repack is $300 to $700 per axle. Electric brake service is $400 to $1,200 per axle. Axle replacement is $1,200 to $3,500 per axle including parts. Suspension work runs $600 to $4,500 depending on system. Air suspension repair on a coach runs $800 to $5,500.
My motorhome rides badly and wanders. Is that suspension?
Possibly, and possibly not. Wandering on a coach is commonly a combination of tyre pressure, alignment, worn steering components, air bag or shock condition, and sometimes a frame that has moved. It is worth diagnosing as a system rather than replacing shocks and hoping. If the vehicle has been in a collision at any point, the frame is worth measuring before spending money on suspension parts.
Custom Fabrication
Can you fabricate a part that is no longer manufactured?
Usually yes, and it is a large share of this work. We take dimensions from the surviving original, from the mirrored part on the opposite side of the vehicle, or from drawings and photographs where nothing usable remains. Metal parts are formed and welded, fiberglass parts are moulded and laid up. On vehicles more than about ten years old, discontinued is the normal case rather than the exception.
How do you attach something to an RV without causing leaks or damage?
By mounting to structure rather than to skin, and by treating every penetration as a sealing detail rather than a hole. A rack bolted through a fiberglass sidewall into nothing will eventually tear the sidewall and leak on the way. We locate framing, add backing where framing is absent, spread the load across enough area to matter, and seal in layers.
Do you work in aluminium and stainless as well as steel?
Yes. Steel for strength and cost, aluminium where weight matters which on a vehicle at its rating is often, and stainless where corrosion resistance justifies the cost and the harder machining. The choice usually follows from the load and the weight budget rather than from preference, and we will explain the trade before committing.
How much does custom fabrication cost?
A simple bracket or mount is $1,000 to $2,500. A rack, carrier or bumper is $2,500 to $8,500. A full build-out for a mobile business or overland vehicle is $10,000 to $25,000 and beyond. Design time is part of the cost on anything one-off, and it is worth paying for rather than skipping.
Will fabrication work affect my weight rating?
It can, and it is worth tracking. Steel is heavy and a substantial rack, bumper and carrier package can add a couple of hundred kilograms to a vehicle that may already be close to its gross rating. We calculate added weight through the design and will suggest aluminium or a lighter design where the payload matters.
Electrical System Repair
Why do my 12 volt lights dim when I run something else?
Voltage drop, almost always at a connection rather than in the cable. A corroded ground, a loose terminal or an undersized crimp presents resistance, and resistance under load drops voltage. It is also the classic symptom of a battery bank at end of life. The diagnosis is a voltage drop test under load across each connection, which finds the bad joint in minutes and saves replacing components that were never faulty.
My converter keeps failing. What is actually wrong?
A converter that fails repeatedly is usually being killed by something else: a battery bank with a shorted cell that it is trying to charge indefinitely, poor ventilation causing thermal shutdown, or incoming shore power that is out of specification. Replacing the converter without finding the cause replaces it again on the same schedule. We test the bank and the supply before condemning the converter.
Is it safe to plug my RV into a household outlet?
For charging and light loads, with an appropriate adapter, yes. What you cannot do is run air conditioning, a microwave and a water heater from a 15 amp household circuit, and attempting it will trip the breaker at best and overheat the household wiring at worst. Household circuits are also frequently on shared breakers and lack the dedicated ground an RV expects, so a proper 30 or 50 amp service is worth installing if you park at home regularly.
How much does electrical repair cost?
Diagnosis is $285 for the first hour and credited back against an authorized repair. A connection or circuit fault is typically $500 to $1,500. A converter, transfer switch or distribution panel replacement is $900 to $3,000. A full rewire or major upgrade runs $3,500 to $8,500. Electrical labor is $260 per hour.
Can rodent damage to wiring be repaired?
Yes, and we see a lot of it on stored vehicles. Rodents chew insulation and nest in warm cavities, and the damage is rarely in one place. The repair is to trace and replace every affected run rather than splicing the one that failed, because the others will fail later. It is also worth finding and sealing the entry point, since repairing the wiring without closing the hole guarantees a repeat.
Fiberglass Repair
Can a crack in RV fiberglass just be filled?
Almost never, and filling it is the most common reason a repair fails. RV fiberglass is a thin outer skin bonded to a substrate, usually luan or foam, backed by framing. A crack means the laminate has flexed past its limit, and the flex is caused by something behind it: a delaminated bond, a soft substrate, a structural member that moved. Fill the crack and the cause is still there, so it reappears, usually within a season and usually longer than before.
How much does fiberglass repair cost on a fifth wheel?
A single crack or puncture with gelcoat blending runs $800 to $2,500. A section with delamination behind it runs $2,500 to $6,500 because the skin has to come off and the substrate replaced. A full panel with structural involvement runs $6,500 to $12,000 or more. The difference is entirely about what is behind the skin, which is why we assess before quoting.
Will the repair be invisible?
On a painted coach, yes, if we blend rather than butt the paint into adjacent panels. On a gelcoat finish it is harder, because gelcoat fades and chalks with UV exposure and the original colour no longer exists on your vehicle. We match to the vehicle as it is today rather than to the factory formula, which gets it very close. On a badly weathered gelcoat the honest answer is that refinishing a larger area produces a better result than trying to spot match.
My camper has a soft spot but no visible crack. Is that fiberglass damage?
It is usually delamination, which is the bond between the fiberglass skin and the substrate failing, most often from water. The skin is intact so there is nothing to see, but pressing on it feels spongy and in sunlight you may see a shallow ripple or bubble. That is a different repair from crack work and it is covered under delamination repair.
Can you repair fiberglass on a vintage or discontinued model?
Yes. On older coaches the panel is frequently no longer manufactured, so the choice is repair or fabricate. We do both here rather than sending the work out. Fabricating a replacement section in fiberglass and blending it into original bodywork is routine on restoration jobs.
Fleet Graphics and Vinyl Wrap
How long does vehicle vinyl last in Southern California?
Five to seven years for quality cast vinyl on vertical surfaces, less on horizontal ones like hoods and roofs where UV exposure is far higher. Cheaper calendered vinyl is closer to three years and it shrinks as it ages, which pulls edges back and leaves visible outlines. For fleet work the cast material is nearly always the better economics because a rewrap cycle costs far more than the material premium.
Will removing a wrap damage my paint?
Not if the paint was sound and the wrap comes off correctly, with heat and patience. Vinyl actually protects the paint underneath, so wrapped panels frequently come out better than unwrapped ones. Damage happens when vinyl is left on far past its life and becomes brittle, or when it was applied over paint that was already failing, in which case removal lifts the failing clearcoat with it.
How much does a fleet wrap cost?
Simple lettering and logos are $800 to $2,000 per vehicle. Partial wraps are $2,000 to $4,500. Full wraps run $3,500 to $9,500 depending on vehicle size and complexity. Removal of an existing wrap is $600 to $2,500 depending on age and condition, and it is a separate line rather than something absorbed into the new job.
Can you match graphics across a mixed fleet?
Yes, and it is the main reason fleets use vinyl rather than paint. Different vehicle models, different original colours and different ages can all be brought to one visual standard, with the artwork scaled per vehicle so the branding reads consistently rather than being stretched to fit. We build a per-model template set so future additions match without redesigning.
Should I wrap or paint my fleet?
Wrap, in almost all cases. Vinyl is cheaper, faster, reversible, replaceable panel by panel when a vehicle gets damaged, and it protects the paint underneath which preserves resale value. Paint makes sense when the branding will never change, when the finish needs to outlast the vinyl cycle, or when the design cannot be reproduced in vinyl.
Hail Damage Repair
Is hail damage covered by insurance?
Under comprehensive coverage, generally yes. The critical part is timing. File promptly and document the storm date, because a hail claim submitted a year later is routinely declined on the grounds that the damage cannot be dated to a covered event, and that is a defensible position for the carrier. Photograph the vehicle, note the date and location of the storm, and open the claim.
How do I know if my RV roof was damaged by hail?
You have to get on the roof and look, because from the ground you will see nothing. On a membrane roof look for punctures, and for bruising, which appears as circular indentations where the membrane has been compressed without being obviously breached. Bruised membrane fails later, which is why an inspection immediately after a storm is worth doing even when nothing is leaking.
Can hail damage be repaired without repainting?
On metal panels with intact paint, frequently yes, using paintless dent removal. On fiberglass and moulded caps, no, because fiberglass has no elastic memory and the damage is cracking and crazing rather than denting. On membrane roofs the repair is patching or replacement rather than anything cosmetic.
How much does hail damage repair cost?
A metal panel repair is $900 to $4,000. A membrane roof repair is $1,500 to $6,000. A fiberglass cap and body repair with refinishing is $5,000 to $15,000. A comprehensive claim on a large coach with roof replacement and full refinishing reaches $25,000 and beyond.
Can you handle a hail claim across an entire fleet?
Yes. Fleet hail is handled as a programme: full assessment with per-unit documentation and VIN level records, a scope agreed with the carrier, then scheduling in batches so the operator is never short more than an agreed number. Carriers process multi-unit claims far more smoothly when the documentation is per vehicle from the start.
Paint and Refinishing
How much does it cost to repaint a motorhome?
A single stage repaint on a smaller coach starts around $8,000. A base and clear repaint on a Class A runs $15,000 to $28,000. A multi-stage finish with full graphics on a luxury coach reaches $35,000 and beyond. Paint labor is $210 per hour and paint supplies calculate at $55 per paint hour, so a job with 140 paint hours carries about $7,700 in materials on top of labor. That materials formula is published so you can check it.
Can you match my faded gelcoat?
We match to the vehicle as it currently is, using a spectrophotometer reading taken off your actual finish rather than the factory colour code. That gets very close. Where the surrounding finish has chalked unevenly, and after eight California summers it usually has, the honest answer is that blending into a larger area produces a better result than trying to spot match a small repair into a badly weathered panel.
What is the difference between blending and butting a repair?
A butted repair paints up to a panel edge and stops. A blended repair carries the new colour progressively into the adjacent panel so the transition has no boundary. Butting is faster and cheaper and it is visible in raking light for the life of the vehicle. We blend. On a coach it usually means painting into one or two panels beyond the repair, which is why a paint estimate covers more area than the damage does.
How long does a full repaint take?
Four to ten weeks depending on the coach and the amount of prep. Prep is most of it. Stripping old graphics, sanding, repairing every chip and crack, masking a 40 foot vehicle and its windows, and blocking the whole body flat is considerably more work than spraying it. A shop quoting two weeks on a full coach repaint is not doing the prep.
Do I need a full repaint or can you just do the damaged area?
Usually the damaged area plus blending. Full repaints make sense when the existing finish has failed generally, when there is clearcoat delamination across multiple panels, when the colour has faded so unevenly that no spot repair can be blended in, or when you are changing the colour. We will tell you which situation you are in rather than upselling the larger job.
Plumbing and Water System Repair
Why does my water pump cycle when no tap is open?
Because there is a leak somewhere in the pressurised side, or the pump check valve is passing. Cycling with everything closed means pressure is dropping, and pressure only drops if water is going somewhere. This is worth chasing immediately rather than tolerating, because a slow leak inside a wall or under a floor is exactly the failure that produces a large water damage bill.
How do I stop tank odours?
Usually not with more chemicals. Odour is normally caused by insufficient water in the black tank, so solids are not breaking down, or by a blocked roof vent, or by a dried out toilet seal letting gas back into the coach. Use plenty of water on every flush, keep the tank valve closed until it is at least two thirds full so it flushes properly, and check the vent is clear. Chemicals mask a symptom that has a mechanical cause.
Can a cracked fresh water or waste tank be repaired?
Sometimes. Polyethylene tanks can be welded plastically by someone who knows what they are doing, and a repair at a seam or a fitting boss frequently holds well. Cracks that run through a mounting point or across a large span usually justify replacement, because the tank is flexing and the repair will crack alongside the old one. Access is often the larger cost either way, since tanks are frequently boxed in behind structure.
How much does RV plumbing repair cost?
A leak repair or fixture replacement is $400 to $1,200. Pump or water heater work is $600 to $2,500. Tank repair or replacement is $1,500 to $6,000 depending heavily on access. A full system replacement on a rebuild runs $4,500 to $9,500.
What is involved in winterising?
Draining the fresh system, bypassing and draining the water heater, blowing lines clear with low pressure air, and either leaving the system dry or introducing RV antifreeze through the pump. In Southern California most owners never need it, but anyone travelling to altitude or out of state in winter does, and a single freeze event that splits a line inside a wall is far more expensive than the service.
Roof Repair and Replacement
How often should an RV roof be resealed?
Inspect every six months and reseal as needed, which in Southern California usually means every twelve to eighteen months at the penetrations. UV here is harder on sealant than almost anywhere, and self-levelling lap sealant that looks fine from the ground is frequently cracked when you get on the roof and press it. The inspection is the important part. Sealant is inexpensive, and a roof replacement is not.
What is the difference between EPDM, TPO and fiberglass roofs?
EPDM is a rubber membrane, black underneath with a white surface coat, flexible and repairable, typically 10 to 15 years. TPO is a thermoplastic membrane, slightly stiffer, heat weldable at seams, similar lifespan with better chemical resistance. Fiberglass is a hard laminated roof, longest lived and most resistant to hail, but it can crack and delaminate rather than tear. Aluminium is found on older and some lightweight units and is sealed at seams rather than being a membrane.
Is it cheaper to repair or replace my RV roof?
Repair almost always, if the substrate underneath is dry. A patch and reseal is $750 to $2,500. A full replacement is $3,500 to $18,000 because it includes stripping the old membrane, replacing any wet decking, and reinstalling every roof-mounted component. The moment the decking is wet, replacement becomes the only real option, which is why catching a leak early changes the cost by a factor of ten.
How do I know if my roof is leaking before I see water inside?
Get on the roof, if it is rated to walk on, and press the sealant at every penetration. Cracked or shrunken sealant is a leak waiting to happen. Inside, look at the ceiling around vents, the air conditioner, skylights and where the walls meet the ceiling. Discolouration, a soft spot, or a stain that changes shape after rain are all early signals. A musty smell in a closed coach is often the first sign of all.
Can you repair hail damage to an RV roof?
Yes. On a membrane roof hail causes punctures and bruising, both of which are repairable by patching if caught before water gets into the decking. On a fiberglass roof hail causes stars and crazing that require laminate repair. Hail claims are usually covered under comprehensive, and the important thing is to document and file promptly, because a carrier will decline a hail claim filed a year later on the basis that the damage cannot be dated.
RV and Fleet Collision Repair
How long does collision repair take on an RV?
A bumper and a single sidewall panel is usually two to three weeks. A Class A motorhome with front cap damage and frame involvement runs eight to sixteen weeks, and most of that clock is parts and insurance approval rather than labor. Coach body panels are frequently made to order by the manufacturer with lead times measured in months, and a supplement request adds a week or more each time the adjuster has to re-inspect. We give you a written timeline after teardown, because any estimate before teardown is a guess.
Can you repair collision damage on a vehicle with custom modifications?
Yes, and it is a large part of what we do. Lift kits, aftermarket bumpers, roof racks, solar arrays and custom paint all complicate a collision repair because the insurer will often try to settle on the base vehicle. We document every modification with photographs and receipts during teardown and submit them as a supplement. Bring any invoices you still have for the work, because a paper trail is the difference between a modification being covered and being written off as pre-existing.
Do you work directly with my insurance company?
We bill direct with every major carrier including Progressive, GEICO, State Farm, AAA, Mercury, Allstate, Liberty Mutual and Wawanesa. You are not required to use a shop your insurer recommends. California law gives you the right to choose your own repair facility, and your carrier has to pay a fair and reasonable rate to the shop you pick.
What does it cost to repair collision damage on a Class A motorhome?
Most Class A collision jobs land between $12,000 and $65,000. A front cap replacement alone is $4,500 to $25,000 in labor before the cap itself. Body and paint labor is billed at $210 per hour and paint supplies at $55 per paint hour, so a job with 90 paint hours carries about $4,950 in materials on top of the labor. The estimate breaks all of this out line by line.
Is my RV a total loss if the frame is bent?
Not necessarily. Frame damage is repairable far more often than owners expect, and a straightened frame that is measured back to factory specification is structurally sound. Whether the insurer totals it is an economic decision, not an engineering one, and it depends on the repair cost against the actual cash value. We measure first and give you real numbers, which is what you need if you intend to contest a total loss determination.
Water Damage Restoration
How do I know how bad the water damage is?
You do not, from the inside. A stain on a ceiling panel or a soft patch of floor is the visible end of something that has been happening inside the structure for a long time. Proper assessment means moisture metering across the walls and floor, lifting flooring at the suspect area, and frequently opening a wall. That is what a hidden damage assessment does, and it is the only way to convert a guess into a scope.
Does insurance cover RV water damage?
It depends on cause. Water from a covered event, a collision that opened a seam, hail, a storm, a burst pipe, is generally covered. Water from gradual intrusion through a seal that was never maintained is usually excluded as wear and maintenance. This is the single most common coverage dispute in RV ownership, and the outcome usually turns on whether the originating event can be documented, which is a strong argument for having damage assessed promptly rather than waiting.
Can you save a floor that has gone soft?
Frequently, yes, if the framing under it is sound. A soft floor is usually a delaminated or rotted subfloor panel over intact framing, and that panel can be cut out and replaced. Where the framing itself has rotted, and on a coach that has been wet for years it often has, the repair extends into the structure and the cost changes substantially.
How much does water damage repair cost?
A localised area caught early is $750 to $3,000. A section of floor and wall is $3,000 to $9,000. A coach with framing and sidewall involvement is $9,000 to $25,000 or more. Every one of those numbers is a function of how long the water was there before anyone found it, which is why the inspection habit matters more than any repair technique.
What about mould?
Assume it is there in any long-term intrusion. Wet cellulose in a warm enclosed space is ideal for it. Anything contaminated comes out rather than being treated in place, the cavity is cleaned and dried to a verified moisture content, and we do not close a wall until it reads dry. Sealing a wall over damp framing produces a mould problem behind new material, which is worse than the original because it is now invisible again.
Window and Glass Replacement
My RV window leaks. Does it need replacing?
Usually not. Most window leaks are the seal between the window frame and the sidewall rather than anything wrong with the window itself. The correct repair is to remove the frame entirely, clean off every trace of old butyl, inspect and repair the opening, and reseat with new sealant. Running a bead of caulk around the outside of a leaking frame is the common shortcut and it traps water behind the frame rather than stopping it.
Can you replace a window on a discontinued model?
Frequently yes. Window manufacturers such as Hehr, Kinro and A&E supplied many coach builders, so a window is often available by size and profile even when the coach maker is long gone. Where nothing matches, we can fabricate a frame or adapt a current window to the existing opening, which is a body job as well as a glass job.
What is that fogging between the panes in my dual pane windows?
A failed seal on the insulated glass unit. Moisture has entered the space between the panes and it will not clear. The glass unit itself has to be replaced, though the frame is usually fine and can be reused. On a coach with many dual pane windows this is a recurring maintenance item as the units age, and it is worth replacing them as they fail rather than all at once.
How much does RV window work cost?
A reseal is $400 to $1,200. Glass replacement in an existing frame is $600 to $2,000. Full window replacement is $900 to $3,500 depending on size and type. Where the opening has water damage behind it, add structural repair, which can take the job to $6,500 and beyond.
Do you do vehicle windshields as well?
Yes, including large one and two piece Class A motorhome windshields, which are a specialist item and are covered separately. Commercial truck, van and bus glass is also handled here, including laminated and tempered units and glass with embedded heating or antenna elements.
ADAS Scan and Recalibration
When is ADAS recalibration required?
After windshield replacement on any vehicle with a camera mounted to or behind the glass. After bumper or grille repair or replacement where radar or sensors are mounted. After suspension or alignment work that changes ride height or thrust angle. After any collision repair affecting a mounting point. And any time a fault code relating to a driver assistance system is present. Manufacturers publish the trigger conditions and we follow those rather than judging by eye.
What happens if I skip recalibration?
The system continues to operate using an incorrect reference. A forward collision warning may brake for something that is not there or fail to see something that is. Lane keeping may steer toward a lane edge it has misjudged. This is worse than having no system, because the driver has been trained by months of correct behaviour to trust it. It also creates a liability exposure after any subsequent incident.
How much does ADAS calibration cost?
A scan is $275 to $400. A static calibration is $450 to $900. A dynamic calibration requiring a road procedure is $600 to $1,200. Multiple systems on one vehicle run $900 to $1,800. Diagnostic labor is $285 per hour with a one hour minimum, credited back against an authorized repair.
Do motorhomes and commercial trucks have ADAS?
Increasingly, yes. Sprinter and Transit based Class B and Class C coaches inherit the donor chassis systems. Modern Class A coaches on newer chassis frequently have collision mitigation and lane departure. Commercial trucks have had collision mitigation and lane departure for years. Any of them can require calibration after repair, and coach owners are frequently unaware their vehicle has these systems at all.
Can you calibrate after a lift kit or suspension change?
Yes, and it is required. Changing ride height changes the angle at which every forward-facing sensor sees the road. A vehicle that has been lifted without recalibration has systems measuring distance and closing speed from an incorrect geometric reference. This is a common oversight on modified vans and overland builds.
Appliance Repair
Why is my RV refrigerator not cooling on gas but works on electric?
On an absorption fridge that points at the gas side specifically: the burner, the orifice, the thermocouple or the flue. A blocked burner orifice from dust or spider webs is extremely common, since the burner tube is an ideal nesting site. If it also fails on electric, the problem is more likely the heating element or the cooling unit itself, which is a different and more expensive conversation.
Can a failed absorption cooling unit be repaired?
Not practically. The cooling unit is a sealed system charged with ammonia and hydrogen, and once it has leaked or crystallised there is no field repair. The choice is a replacement cooling unit, a replacement refrigerator, or converting to a 12 volt compressor unit. We will tell you which makes sense for your coach and your usage rather than defaulting to the largest job.
Should I convert to a 12 volt compressor fridge?
For many owners yes, particularly if you have or plan solar and lithium. Compressor units cool faster, work when parked off level, are unaffected by ambient heat the way absorption units are, and use no propane. The trade is that they draw meaningful DC current continuously, so they need a battery bank that can support them. Absorption remains sensible for coaches that spend most of their time on shore power or that lack the electrical capacity.
How much does RV appliance repair cost?
Diagnosis and minor repair is $350 to $900. Component replacement such as a control board, element or igniter is $600 to $1,800. A refrigerator cooling unit replacement is $2,500 to $4,500. A full refrigerator replacement is $3,000 to $6,500 depending on the unit and the cabinet work needed to fit it.
My appliance works on shore power but not on battery. Is that the appliance?
Usually not. That symptom points at the inverter, the transfer switch or the DC supply rather than the appliance. An appliance that behaves differently depending on the power source is reporting a power problem, and the diagnosis belongs in the electrical system rather than in the appliance.
Box and Cargo Body Repair
Can a torn box truck corner post be repaired or does the body need replacing?
Almost always repaired. Corner posts, bottom rails and roof bows are replaceable sections, and replacing a damaged post is a fraction of the cost of a new body. Body replacement makes sense when the structure is damaged in multiple places, when the floor has failed across most of its area, or when corrosion has progressed past the point where sectioning is practical.
My reefer body is losing temperature. Is that the unit or the body?
Check the body first. Insulated panels lose performance when moisture gets into the foam core, usually through a damaged panel, a failed seam or a penetration that was made for a shelf bracket and never sealed. A refrigeration unit working correctly against a compromised box will still lose temperature, and replacing the unit does not fix it. We survey the panels and the seals before anyone spends money on refrigeration.
How much does box body repair cost?
A panel repair is $750 to $2,500. A door or door track repair is $900 to $4,500. Floor replacement is $2,500 to $8,000. Structural rail or post replacement is $3,000 to $10,000. A comprehensive rebuild reaches $18,000 and beyond, at which point body replacement is worth comparing.
How long will my truck be off the road?
A panel or door repair is two to five days. Floor replacement is one to two weeks. Structural work is two to four weeks. For fleets we schedule to keep the number of vehicles down at once within an agreed limit, and we will tell you the realistic date rather than an optimistic one so you can plan cover.
Do you repair aluminium and composite bodies as well as steel?
Yes, all three, and they are genuinely different jobs. Steel is welded. Aluminium is welded with different equipment and technique and needs care about the heat affected zone. Composite panels used on modern dry vans and reefers are bonded and frequently structural, which means the manufacturer's adhesive system rather than a general purpose one.
Custom Paint and Graphics
My coach graphics are discontinued. Can you reproduce them?
Yes, and it is a large share of this work. We photograph and measure what survives on the vehicle, reconstruct the artwork to scale, and either reproduce it in paint or have it cut as vinyl depending on the original construction. Where nothing usable survives on your coach, owner forums and brochure scans for that model year are frequently good enough to reconstruct from. This is normal on any coach more than about ten years old.
Is painted graphics better than vinyl?
Different rather than better. Painted graphics last as long as the paint, will not lift or peel at the edges, and can be cut and polished. They are also considerably more expensive and they cannot be changed without repainting. Vinyl is cheaper, faster, replaceable and reversible, and it lasts five to seven years in California sun before it needs replacing. Factory coach graphics are usually vinyl. High-end custom work is usually paint.
How much does a full custom paint job cost?
A stripe package or partial graphics runs $1,500 to $6,000. A full custom design with multi-stage colour runs $12,000 to $25,000 and beyond. The variables are the number of colours, the number of masking stages and whether there is airbrush or fade work, each of which multiplies the hours rather than adding to them.
Can you match graphics on one repaired panel to the rest of the coach?
Usually. The complication is that the original vinyl has faded for the same number of years the paint has, so new vinyl in the original colour will be brighter than its neighbours. On a partial repair we either weather-match the new material or, on a badly aged coach, recommend replacing the full run rather than one section so everything ages together from the same starting point.
How long does custom paint work take?
A stripe package is one to two weeks. A full custom multi-colour design on a Class A is six to twelve weeks. Each colour is a separate masking, spraying and curing cycle, and complexity compounds because every additional colour has to key correctly against every colour already laid down.
Delamination Repair
What causes delamination on an RV?
Water, in the overwhelming majority of cases. It enters at a failed seal, a roof seam, a window frame, a compartment door, a marker light or a slide-out gasket, then travels inside the wall by gravity and capillary action. It soaks the luan substrate, the adhesive bond between substrate and fiberglass skin gives way, and the skin separates. Heat accelerates it: a wet wall in California summer sun delaminates far faster than the same wall in a mild climate.
Can delamination be fixed by injecting adhesive?
There are injection kits sold for this and they can flatten a small bubble cosmetically. What they do not do is remove the water or replace the substrate that has already failed, so the wood keeps deteriorating behind a skin that is now glued down over it. On a small, genuinely dry separation caught early, injection is a defensible repair. On anything driven by water intrusion it postpones a larger repair rather than preventing one.
How much does delamination repair cost?
A small area under about four square feet runs $1,500 to $3,500. A sidewall section runs $4,000 to $9,000. A full sidewall or a case with framing and floor involvement runs $9,000 to $20,000 or more. The driver is how far the water travelled before anyone noticed, which is why catching it early changes the cost by an order of magnitude.
Is delamination covered by insurance?
It depends entirely on cause. Delamination resulting from a covered event, a collision that opened a seam, hail that punctured a roof, a storm, is generally covered. Delamination from gradual water intrusion through a seal that was never maintained is usually excluded as wear and maintenance. The determination often comes down to documentation of the originating event, which is one reason to have damage assessed promptly after any incident rather than waiting to see if it matters.
How do I know if I have delamination before it is visible?
Press firmly along the sidewall in a grid. A sound wall feels uniformly solid. A delaminated area feels soft, springy or hollow. Tap it: sound laminate rings, delaminated laminate thuds. Look along the wall in low raking sunlight, which reveals shallow waves and ripples the eye misses head on. Check around every window, compartment door, marker light and slide seal, because those are where water gets in.
Frame Straightening and Structural Repair
Is a bent frame automatically a total loss?
No. Total loss is an economic determination, not an engineering one. The insurer compares repair cost against actual cash value and applies a threshold, usually 70 to 80 percent in California. Frame damage sounds catastrophic and often is not, and a chassis straightened back to factory specification is structurally sound for the life of the vehicle. What we can give you is a measured repair figure, which is exactly what you need if you intend to contest a total loss determination.
How do you know the frame is actually straight when you are done?
We measure it. The chassis goes on a rack and we take reference points in three planes against the manufacturer specification, before and after. Straightening without measuring is guessing, and a frame that looks straight to the eye can be a quarter inch out diagonally, which is enough to bind a slide-out and wear tires for the rest of the vehicle's life.
Can you straighten the frame on a vehicle with a lift kit or heavy modifications?
Yes, and modified vehicles are a significant part of this work. The complication is that the factory specification assumes a factory configuration, so we document the modification, establish reference points that are still valid, and pull to those. Bring receipts for the modification work, because insurers routinely try to settle a modified vehicle at base specification.
What causes frame damage besides collisions?
Heavy towing beyond rating, repeated overloading, jackknifing on a fifth wheel, corrosion at a mount that eventually cracks, and previous improper repair. We see a lot of the last one: a frame that was pulled once without measurement, released, and sprung partway back. The vehicle drives crooked and the owner has been chasing tire wear and alignment for years without anyone checking the actual chassis.
How long does frame straightening take?
The pull itself is usually one to three days. The job around it is longer, because a chassis cannot be straightened with the body in the way. Teardown, straightening, measurement, then rebuilding everything that came off, typically puts a frame job at three to ten weeks depending on how much body work sits on top of it.
Interior Remodeling
Can I use residential materials in an RV remodel?
Some, carefully. Weight and movement are the constraints. Residential cabinetry is heavy and built with joinery that assumes it will never be shaken, and a granite countertop that is fine in a kitchen is several hundred kilograms of payload plus a crack risk on the road. We use residential materials where the weight and flex allow, and RV-appropriate alternatives where they do not, and we will tell you which is which before you buy anything.
How much does an RV interior remodel cost?
A refresh with flooring, paint and soft goods is $1,500 to $6,000. A partial remodel including cabinetry and countertops is $8,000 to $20,000. A full gut and rebuild on a large coach is $25,000 to $50,000 and beyond. The largest single variable is whether the layout changes, because moving a wall means moving plumbing and wiring behind it.
Will a remodel affect my weight rating?
It can, significantly, and it is the thing owners overlook most. Solid surface countertops, tile, residential appliances and hardwood all add substantial weight, and a coach that was already close to its gross rating can end up over it. We track weight through the design and will tell you when a material choice is going to cost you payload you need.
How long does a full remodel take?
A refresh is one to three weeks. A partial remodel is four to eight weeks. A full gut and rebuild is three to six months. Custom cabinetry lead time is usually the constraint rather than installation, and layout changes that involve plumbing and electrical routing add time that is hard to compress.
Can you remodel a vintage coach without losing its character?
Yes, and it is some of the more satisfying work here. The approach is to retain and restore the elements that define the vehicle, original cabinetry faces, period fixtures, distinctive trim, while rebuilding the structure and systems behind them to current standard. That is different from a modern remodel and it takes longer, because restoration is slower than replacement.
Leveling System Repair
My jacks will not retract. What do I do?
Every leveling system has a manual retract procedure and the method is in your owner manual. On hydraulic systems it usually means opening a release valve at the pump to let the jacks drop under their own weight or be pushed up. On electric systems there is typically a drive nut you can turn with a socket or a drill. Do not attempt to drive with jacks down, and do not improvise a release, because forcing a hydraulic system can injure you.
Why do my jacks drift down overnight?
On a hydraulic system that is internal cylinder leakage or a leaking valve, letting fluid past and allowing the jack to settle. On an electric system, drift is unusual and points at a mechanical fault. Either way it is worth fixing rather than tolerating, because a coach that settles unevenly overnight stresses the frame and can bind slide-outs.
Should I use leveling blocks under the jacks?
Yes, on anything other than firm level concrete. A jack foot sinking into asphalt on a hot day or into soft ground under a heavy coach concentrates enormous load on a small area and can bend a jack or damage the frame mount. Blocks spread the load and keep the jack extension shorter, which is mechanically better anyway.
How much does leveling system repair cost?
Diagnosis and adjustment is $350 to $800. A single jack or motor replacement is $700 to $2,000. Pump or control board replacement is $900 to $2,500. A full hydraulic system overhaul runs $3,000 to $6,500.
Can auto-leveling be retrofitted to a coach that does not have it?
Yes, on many chassis, and it is a popular upgrade on older coaches. The install involves mounting jacks to frame points strong enough to take the load, plumbing or wiring the system, and fitting the control head and sensors. Mounting is the part that determines whether it works long term, since a jack bolted to inadequate structure will eventually distort it.
RV Windshield Replacement
Why is a motorhome windshield so much more expensive than a car windshield?
Size, weight, and the fact that it is frequently a two piece unit with a centre divider that has to seal. A Class A windshield half can weigh over 45 kilograms and needs two people plus setting tools to place. The glass itself is low volume and made to order for many coaches, which prices very differently from a mass market automotive part. Add urethane cure time and a windshield replacement is a day or more rather than an hour.
Can a cracked motorhome windshield be repaired instead of replaced?
Chips and short cracks outside the driver's primary vision area can often be resin repaired, which stops them spreading and is far cheaper. Long cracks, anything crossing the driver's sightline, and any damage at the edge of the glass generally require replacement, because edge damage compromises the bonded structural function of the windshield.
My windshield leaks. Does it need replacing?
Not necessarily. Leaks around a bonded windshield are usually a urethane bond failure at one section, often caused by corrosion in the pinch weld underneath. The correct repair is to remove the glass, treat the corrosion, and rebond. Injecting sealant around the outside of a leaking windshield is a temporary measure that traps water against the metal and accelerates the rust that caused it.
How much does a Class A windshield cost?
A single piece unit runs $2,500 to $6,000 installed. A two piece unit runs $3,500 to $9,500 installed. Commercial truck and bus glass is typically $1,800 to $4,500. Where the pinch weld has corroded and needs repair before bonding, add that work on top, since bonding new glass to rusty steel produces a bond that will fail.
Do I need recalibration after a windshield replacement?
If your vehicle has forward-facing cameras or radar mounted to or behind the windshield, yes, and it is not optional. Those systems are aimed relative to the glass, and a replacement moves them by enough to matter. Driving with an uncalibrated forward collision or lane keeping system is worse than driving without one, because it will act on incorrect information.
Slide-Out Repair
Why does my slide-out keep binding?
Usually because the opening is no longer square. A slide room is built to a tight tolerance and it travels on rails that assume the structure around it has not moved. A frame that twisted in an impact, a sidewall that has sagged, or a floor that has softened from water damage will all rack the opening, and the room then binds as it travels. Owners replace motors and controllers repeatedly before anyone checks the structure, which is the actual fault.
How much does slide-out repair cost?
A motor or controller replacement is $500 to $1,500. A mechanism rebuild is $1,500 to $4,000. Structural repair of the room or the opening is $3,500 to $8,500. The diagnostic matters here more than on most jobs, because the cheap repair and the expensive repair present with identical symptoms.
What is the difference between Schwintek and a rack and pinion system?
Schwintek is an in-wall system with motors driving vertical toothed tracks on each side of the room, common on lighter rooms and newer units. It is compact but sensitive to alignment and to the two sides staying synchronised. Rack and pinion, including Lippert and Power Gear systems, uses a through-frame rail and is more tolerant of imperfect alignment but heavier and takes more space. Hydraulic systems, typically HWH, are used on the largest and heaviest rooms.
My slide is out and will not retract. Can I still travel?
Do not travel with a room extended. Every slide system has a manual override, either a crank point or a way to release the drive, and the location is in your owner manual. Get it in, secured, and then bring it to us. A room that shifts while travelling can destroy the opening and turn a mechanism repair into a structural rebuild.
Why is water getting in around my slide?
Usually the seals, which are wear items with a life of roughly five to eight years in California sun. Sometimes it is the room sitting out of square so the seals cannot make even contact, in which case new seals will leak too. And sometimes it is the top of the room, because a slide topper that has failed lets water sit on the roof of the room and find its way in at the leading edge. Seal work is covered under slide-out seal replacement.
Solar, Inverter and Battery Systems
How much solar do I actually need?
Work backwards from consumption rather than forwards from roof space. Add up what you run and for how long, in amp hours per day, then size the bank to hold two to three days of that and the array to replace a day of it in usable sun. Most owners who are disappointed by a solar system undersized the battery bank rather than the panels, because panels only control refill rate while the bank controls what you can do overnight.
Is lithium worth the cost over lead acid?
For most people who use their vehicle regularly, yes. Lithium gives you roughly twice the usable capacity per rated amp hour because you can discharge it deeply without damage, it weighs about half as much, it charges far faster, and it lasts several times longer. The purchase price is higher and the cost per usable amp hour over the life of the bank is lower. For a vehicle used twice a year, lead acid remains defensible.
Can I add lithium batteries without changing anything else?
Usually not, and this is the most common expensive mistake. Lithium needs a charge profile that many older converters and alternators do not produce, so charging is either incomplete or damaging. Alternator charging in particular needs a DC to DC charger, because lithium will accept current fast enough to cook an alternator that was never designed for it. Budget for the charging side as part of the conversion rather than as an afterthought.
How much does a solar and lithium system cost?
A basic solar addition with a controller runs $1,200 to $3,500. A meaningful system with lithium and a decent inverter runs $6,000 to $14,000. A full off-grid build with a large array, substantial bank, high-output inverter and DC to DC charging runs $14,000 to $25,000 and beyond. The bank and the inverter are usually the largest line items rather than the panels.
Will drilling into my roof cause leaks?
Only if it is done badly, which it frequently is. Every penetration is a potential leak and the mounting is the part that matters more than the panel. We mount to structure rather than to skin, seal in layers rather than with a single bead of lap sealant, and where the roof construction allows we use adhesive mounting to avoid penetrations entirely. A solar install is also the right moment to inspect and reseal the rest of the roof while we are up there.
Welding and Metal Fabrication
Can you weld an aluminium trailer frame?
Yes. Aluminium welding requires different equipment and technique from steel, and the alloy matters because filler selection follows from it. Aluminium also loses strength in the heat affected zone around a weld, which means a repair on aluminium frequently needs reinforcement that the same repair in steel would not. We identify the alloy before welding rather than assuming.
Is it safe to weld on a chassis?
With the correct precautions, yes, and it is routine structural work. The precautions matter: disconnect batteries, isolate control modules, ground close to the weld so current does not travel through bearings or electronics, protect fuel and propane systems, and confirm nothing flammable is on the other side of the panel. Welding on a vehicle without those steps damages electronics and occasionally sets fire to insulation inside a wall.
Where can and cannot a frame be welded?
Manufacturers publish approved sectioning locations and prohibited zones, and those exist for a reason: welding at a stress concentration or over a designed crush zone changes how the structure behaves under load. On unibody vehicles this is strictly defined. On ladder frames there is more latitude, but welding across a rail flange at a high-stress point is still poor practice. We follow the published procedure where one exists.
How much does welding work cost?
A small repair weld is $500 to $1,500. Structural crack repair or reinforcement is $1,500 to $5,000. Frame section replacement is $4,000 to $10,000. A full structural rebuild reaches $15,000 and beyond. Structural labor is $260 per hour.
Do you do mobile or on-site welding?
No. All welding is performed at the Yorba Linda facility. Structural welding needs controlled conditions, proper fixturing, the ability to measure before and after, and equipment that does not travel. A structural weld made in a parking lot cannot be verified, and on a chassis that is not a corner worth cutting.
Air Conditioning and Heating Repair
Why will my RV air conditioner not keep the coach cool?
Usually not the air conditioner. A coach has poor insulation, large single-glazed windows and a dark roof absorbing sun all day, so the heat load is enormous relative to the capacity. Before replacing a unit, check the return air filter, the roof gasket, duct leaks in the ceiling plenum, and whether the coach is simply undersized on capacity for a California summer. Shading and window covering frequently make more difference than any repair.
What is a soft start and is it worth fitting?
A soft start reduces the inrush current when the compressor kicks in, which can be three to five times running current. It lets an air conditioner start on a 30 amp service alongside other loads, on a smaller generator, or from an inverter that could not otherwise support it. On a coach with two units or with limited service it is one of the more worthwhile upgrades available.
My furnace runs but blows cold air. What is wrong?
The blower is running and the burner is not lighting or is not staying lit. Usual causes are a failed igniter, a sail switch that is not confirming airflow, a blocked or restricted exhaust, low propane pressure, or a control board fault. A furnace that lights and then drops out after a few seconds is almost always the flame sensing circuit.
How much does air conditioning repair cost?
Service and diagnosis is $400 to $900. Capacitor, fan motor or control board replacement is $500 to $1,500. A rooftop unit replacement is $1,800 to $3,800 installed. Furnace repair is $400 to $1,800 and replacement is $1,500 to $3,500. Hydronic systems such as AquaHot are more involved and run $1,500 to $9,500.
Can you fit a heat pump instead of a furnace?
On some rooftop units yes, and a heat pump is efficient in mild conditions, which covers a lot of Southern California. What it will not do is heat well in genuinely cold weather, because efficiency falls off as outside temperature drops. Most owners who travel to altitude keep the propane furnace as well, using the heat pump for mild conditions and the furnace when it is actually cold.
Cabinetry and Countertops
Can RV cabinets be refaced rather than replaced?
Usually, and it is normally the better answer. The carcases in most coaches are sound long after the doors and finishes look tired, so replacing doors, drawer fronts, hardware and any visible surfaces transforms the interior at a fraction of the cost and weight of new cabinetry. Refacing also avoids disturbing whatever plumbing and wiring is routed behind and through the existing boxes.
What countertop material works in an RV?
Solid surface is the usual answer: light, seamless, repairable, and tolerant of flex. Laminate is lighter still and cheapest. Quartz and granite look excellent and are heavy enough to matter on payload and brittle enough to crack when the structure flexes, so where a customer wants stone we support the substrate properly and set expectations honestly. Butcher block is a good middle option if it is sealed properly and maintained.
My cabinet doors will not stay shut on the road. Why?
Because the latch is a residential catch rather than a positive latch, or because the carcase has shifted and the door no longer aligns with the catch. Both are common. Vehicles need positive latching, not friction catches, and any door that opens on the road will eventually break its own hinge or damage what is opposite it.
How much does cabinet work cost?
A repair to a damaged cabinet is $500 to $1,500. Refacing a galley is $2,500 to $6,000. Full custom cabinetry for a coach is $8,000 to $15,000 and beyond. Countertop replacement runs $900 to $4,500 depending on material and how many pieces the layout needs.
My cabinets got wet. Can they be saved?
Depends on the core. Particle board and MDF that has been soaked swells irreversibly and has to be replaced. Plywood carcases that dried quickly are often recoverable. The bigger question is what the water was doing behind the cabinet, because a wet cabinet is a symptom and the wall it is mounted to is usually wet too. That is a water damage restoration job with a cabinet component rather than a cabinet job.
Fiberglass Panel Replacement
When does replacing a panel beat repairing it?
Roughly when damage exceeds about sixty percent of the panel area, when the substrate has failed across most of the panel, when there are multiple separate damage zones that would each need blending, or when the panel has already been repaired more than once. Below that threshold repair is usually both cheaper and better, because a repaired panel keeps original bonding at the edges where a replacement introduces new joints.
My coach model is discontinued and the panel is not available. What then?
We fabricate it. A mould is taken from the existing panel where enough of it survives, or from the opposite side of the vehicle where the geometry mirrors, and a replacement is laid up in fiberglass. This is routine on vintage coach restoration and on any unit more than about fifteen years old, where original body panels have generally been out of production for a decade.
How much does a front cap replacement cost on a Class A?
Labor runs $4,500 to $25,000 depending on the coach and what the cap is attached to, and the cap itself is on top of that. A factory cap for a current model runs several thousand dollars. A fabricated cap for a discontinued model is quoted after we see the vehicle. Front caps are the single most expensive body panel on most coaches, which is why repairing one is usually worth attempting first.
Will a replacement panel match the rest of the coach?
Not out of the box, and anyone who says otherwise has not painted a sun-faded coach. A new panel arrives in a factory colour that your vehicle no longer is. We match paint to the vehicle as it is today and blend into the adjacent panels so there is no hard edge. On a heavily weathered coach the better answer is often refinishing a larger area, and we will tell you when that is the case.
How long does panel replacement take?
A single sidewall panel is typically two to four weeks. A front or rear cap on a Class A is six to twelve weeks, and most of that is the panel itself rather than the labor. Factory caps are frequently made to order with lead times measured in months, and no shop can shorten a manufacturer's queue. Fabrication is sometimes faster than ordering, which surprises people.
Generator Repair and Service
Why will my generator not start after sitting all winter?
Fuel, almost every time. Gasoline degrades in weeks to months, leaving varnish that blocks the carburettor jets, and the carburettor bowl on a stored generator is exactly where that happens. Diesel units suffer differently, with microbial growth and water in the tank. The fix on a gasoline unit is usually a carburettor clean or rebuild, and the prevention is running it monthly under load.
How often should I exercise my generator?
Once a month for at least thirty minutes with a real load on it, ideally half or more of rated output. Running it briefly with nothing connected is worse than not running it, because it warms up without reaching operating temperature, which lets moisture condense inside and does not burn off deposits. Loaded running keeps the fuel system wet, the windings dry and the carbon deposits down.
My generator starts but shuts down under load. Why?
Usually fuel delivery or cooling. A partially blocked fuel system supplies enough to idle and not enough to run loaded. A blocked cooling intake or an air filter full of dust causes thermal shutdown, which is a protection working correctly. It can also be a failing voltage regulator or a winding fault, which is why diagnosis before parts matters on this one.
How much does generator repair cost?
Service is $400 to $900. A carburettor rebuild or fuel system clean is $700 to $1,800. Control board or regulator replacement is $900 to $2,500. A full overhaul is $3,500 to $8,500. New installation runs $6,000 to $12,000 including the unit, mounting, exhaust and electrical integration.
Is it worth overhauling an old generator or should I replace it?
Depends on hours and on what has failed. A unit with moderate hours and a specific failure is usually worth repairing. A unit at high hours with low compression, a burnt winding or a cracked housing is usually not, because the next failure is close behind. We give you the hour count, the compression figures and an honest comparison rather than defaulting to whichever is the larger job.
Insurance Claim Repair
Can my insurance company make me use their shop?
No. California Insurance Code section 758.5 gives you the right to select your own repair facility. A carrier may recommend a direct repair program shop and may not require one, and it may not condition payment on your using it. Most carrier-preferred facilities are automotive shops, which matters when your vehicle is a 40 foot coach that needs a rack rated for 26,000 pounds.
What is a supplement and why does my repair need one?
A supplement is additional scope submitted after the original estimate. On large vehicles they are normal rather than exceptional, because the adjuster wrote from what was visible and teardown found more. What determines whether a supplement is approved smoothly is documentation: photographs taken at teardown, before parts are ordered, showing exactly what was found. We write and submit supplements ourselves rather than leaving it to the owner.
What if my carrier declares my RV a total loss and I disagree?
Total loss is an economic determination comparing repair cost against actual cash value. Both numbers can be challenged. A repair estimate based on a visual inspection may be wrong in either direction, and actual cash value on a coach is frequently understated because comparable sales data is thin. We provide measured repair figures and documentation, which is the material you need to contest the determination.
Do I pay you or does the insurance company?
We bill the carrier direct on covered claims, so you are generally responsible for your deductible and any betterment or non-covered items rather than fronting the whole repair. Where a carrier's approved rate does not cover the repair as it needs to be done, we tell you rather than reducing the repair to fit the number.
What should I do immediately after an incident?
Photograph everything at the scene from multiple angles including the wider context. Get the other party's information and a police report number where applicable. Notify your carrier promptly. Do not authorise a tow to a storage yard if you can avoid it, because storage fees accrue daily and come out of your settlement. And get the vehicle assessed properly before accepting any settlement figure.
Lift Gate Installation and Repair
My lift gate is slow or will not lift a full load. What is wrong?
Usually hydraulic or electrical rather than structural. Low fluid, a worn pump, a leaking cylinder or a failing solenoid all reduce lifting capacity. On the electrical side, a lift gate draws very high current and a tired battery, a corroded cable or a poor ground will produce exactly the same symptom. Because the two causes look identical from the operator seat, diagnosis before parts is worth the hour.
The gate sags when it is stowed. Is that the gate or the truck?
Frequently the truck. A lift gate hangs a substantial cantilever load off the rear of the frame and cycles it thousands of times, and the mounting structure or the frame rails behind it can crack or deform. A gate that has started sagging or sitting crooked when it used to be square is worth inspecting structurally rather than adjusting.
How much does lift gate work cost?
Service and adjustment is $800 to $1,800. Hydraulic repair is $1,200 to $4,000. Electrical and control repair is $900 to $2,500. Structural mounting repair is $2,500 to $7,000. A new installation runs $6,000 to $12,000 including the unit, mounting, hydraulics and electrical integration.
How often should a lift gate be serviced?
Every six months on a gate in daily service, annually on lighter use. Service covers hydraulic fluid and leaks, hose condition, cylinder and pin wear, electrical connections and battery condition, structural inspection of the mounting, and function testing at rated load. It is inexpensive relative to a failure, and a lift gate failure is both a downtime event and an injury risk.
Can you fit a lift gate to a truck that never had one?
Yes, provided the chassis can take it. The install involves verifying the frame is rated for the load, fabricating and welding mounting structure, plumbing hydraulics, running high current electrical with proper protection, and integrating controls. The mounting is what determines whether it lasts, which is why this is a fabrication job with a lift gate at the end of it rather than a bolt-on.
Paint Correction and Ceramic Coating
What is the difference between correction and detailing?
Detailing cleans and protects the surface as it is. Correction changes the surface by removing a thin layer of clearcoat to level out defects that sit below it: swirls, scratches, oxidation, water spot etching. Detailing is reversible and repeatable. Correction removes material permanently, which is why it can only be done a limited number of times before the clearcoat is too thin to protect the colour underneath.
How many times can paint be corrected?
Depends entirely on how much clearcoat is there. Factory clear on a coach is typically 1.5 to 2.5 mils and each correction stage removes roughly 0.2 to 0.5 mils. So realistically two to four full corrections over the life of the paint, fewer if it has already been polished aggressively. We measure with a coating thickness gauge across the whole vehicle before starting and we will decline a correction on paint that cannot afford it.
Is ceramic coating worth it on an RV?
On a vehicle that lives outdoors in California, more so than on a car in a garage. A coach presents an enormous surface to UV, and UV is what destroys the finish. A quality coating gives three to five years of meaningful UV and chemical protection and makes the surface far easier to wash, which matters when the surface is 40 feet long. It does not prevent scratches and it is not a substitute for washing.
Can you correct gelcoat rather than paint?
Yes, and oxidised gelcoat responds dramatically to correction, often more visibly than paint does. Gelcoat is thicker than clearcoat so there is more material to work with. Heavily chalked gelcoat usually needs a compounding stage before polishing. Where the oxidation has gone deep enough that correction cannot recover it, refinishing is the answer and we will tell you which side of that line you are on.
How long does correction take on a Class A?
A single stage enhancement on a 36 foot coach is two to three days. A full multi-stage correction on a 45 foot coach with heavy oxidation is two to three weeks. It is hand and machine work over hundreds of square feet, and there is no way to compress it. Ceramic coating adds one to three days on top including cure time.
Slide-Out Seal Replacement
How often do slide-out seals need replacing?
Every five to eight years in Southern California, sooner on a coach stored outdoors in full sun. UV hardens the rubber until it takes a permanent set and stops springing back against the room. A seal that has gone hard is still visibly present and is no longer sealing, which is why owners are often surprised to be told the seals are the problem when they look fine.
What are the different types of slide seal?
Wiper seals are the flexible blades that sweep the room surface as it travels and keep debris out. Bulb seals are hollow compressible seals that squash when the room is fully in or fully out to make the actual weather seal. D-seals do a similar job with a D-shaped profile. Most rooms use a combination, and they fail at different rates, so a full seal job usually replaces all of them rather than the one that is obviously perished.
My slide leaks even though the seals were just replaced. Why?
Almost always because the room is not sitting square. A seal can only seal against even contact, and a room that is racked will compress its seal on one side and leave a gap on the other regardless of how new the rubber is. That is a mechanism or structural problem rather than a seal problem, and it is covered under slide-out repair.
What is a slide topper and do I need one?
A slide topper is a fabric awning that covers the top of an extended slide room, keeping water, leaves and debris off it. Yes, you need one. Without it water sits on the room roof and finds its way in at the leading edge, which is the single most common path to a rotted slide floor. Toppers are wear items too, typically five to eight years, and a torn topper is worse than none because it channels water to one point.
How much does slide seal replacement cost?
A single room reseal is $400 to $1,200. A multi-room coach is $1,200 to $3,000. A slide topper replacement is $450 to $1,800 depending on width and whether the roller and hardware need replacing too. It is inexpensive work relative to what it prevents.
Step and Entry Door Repair
Why will my RV entry door not latch properly?
Usually because the opening is no longer square. Doors and their strikers are fitted to an opening, and if the structure around that opening has moved, from a collision, from a soft floor, from a sagging sidewall or from frame movement, the door and striker no longer line up. Adjusting the striker compensates temporarily and the underlying movement continues, which is why the adjustment keeps needing to be redone.
My electric step will not extend. Is the motor bad?
Frequently not. Electric steps like Kwikee and Lippert units have a motor, a controller, a door switch that tells the system the door is open, and a ground path that is exposed to road spray. Corroded grounds and failed door switches are more common than motor failure. Diagnosis before parts saves money on this one more often than on almost any other component.
Can a damaged RV entry door be repaired or does it need replacing?
Depends on what is damaged. Skins can be repaired, frames can often be straightened, and hardware is replaceable. A door that is delaminated, corroded through, or twisted is usually better replaced. Doors on older coaches are frequently discontinued, in which case we can adapt a current door to the opening or fabricate, which is a body job as much as a door job.
How much does this work cost?
Door adjustment and hardware is $350 to $900. Electric step repair is $500 to $1,600. Step replacement is $900 to $2,500. Entry door replacement is $1,500 to $4,500 depending on the door and whether the opening needs repair.
Why does my compartment door leak?
The gasket, or the door no longer sitting flat against it. Compartment door gaskets harden with UV and stop sealing, and compartment doors get pushed, leaned on and loaded until the frame distorts slightly. Both are inexpensive to fix and both let water into bays where it does damage that is not discovered for a long time.
Storage, Racks and Bumpers
Can you add a rear rack or carrier to my motorhome?
Usually, and the answer depends on what is behind the rear wall. A carrier applies a large cantilever load to the rear frame extension, and many coaches have a rear overhang that was never designed for it. We inspect the frame extension and the mounting area first, add structure where it is needed, and will tell you honestly if a coach cannot take the load you have in mind.
How much weight can I put on a roof rack?
Less than people expect, and the limit is usually the roof structure rather than the rack. Coach roofs are light framing under a membrane and they are not designed for concentrated loads. A rack that spreads load across multiple framing members can carry a reasonable amount. One that bears on two points will deform the roof. We calculate against the actual structure rather than quoting a generic figure.
Will adding a rack cause roof leaks?
Only if the penetrations are done badly, which is the usual outcome of a quick installation. Every fastener through a roof is a leak path. We mount into framing, use backing plates to spread load, seal in layers rather than with a single surface bead, and where the construction allows we avoid penetrating the membrane at all by mounting to existing structure at the roof edge.
How much do racks and storage systems cost?
A simple roof or ladder rack is $900 to $2,500. A rear carrier or receiver-mounted system is $1,800 to $4,500. A custom bumper with integrated carrier and lighting is $3,500 to $8,500. A full storage system with underbody boxes and slide-out trays is $4,500 to $12,000.
Can you build storage that survives being driven on rough roads?
That is the design requirement rather than a bonus. Drawers need positive latching and slides rated for shock rather than for a kitchen. Boxes need to be mounted to structure with fasteners in shear rather than tension where possible. Anything heavy needs to sit low and be restrained in all directions, because a loose toolbox in a cargo area becomes a projectile under braking.
Unibody and Chassis Repair
What is the difference between unibody and body-on-frame repair?
A unibody has no separate frame. The body panels, floor pan and structural members are one welded structure, so a hit to a rocker or a pillar is structural damage rather than cosmetic. A body-on-frame truck has a ladder frame underneath and a body bolted to it, so the two can often be repaired independently. Sprinter, Transit and ProMaster vans are unibody. Cutaway chassis, box trucks and most commercial vehicles are body-on-frame.
Can a unibody van be straightened, or does it have to be replaced?
It can be straightened. Unibody structures are pulled on a rack the same way a frame is, anchored at factory reference points and measured against specification. What is different is that the tolerance is tighter and the structure is less forgiving of repeated pulls, so getting it right the first time matters more. Sectioning is also more constrained: manufacturers publish where you may cut and where you may not.
Is a repaired unibody as strong as the original?
When it is repaired to manufacturer procedure, yes. That means pulling to specification rather than to close enough, sectioning only at approved locations, using the specified weld type, and replacing rather than heating and straightening any high-strength steel component that the manufacturer designates as non-repairable. Cutting corners on any of those produces a vehicle that looks correct and behaves differently in the next impact.
My Sprinter conversion has a full camper build inside. Does that complicate the repair?
Considerably, and it is worth knowing before you file. Structural repair on a unibody needs access to the inside of the shell, which means the build comes out and goes back. Cabinetry, insulation, wiring, plumbing and solar all have to be removed, stored and reinstalled. That labor is real and it is frequently missing from an adjuster's initial estimate, so we document the build at teardown with photographs and submit it as a supplement.
How do I know if my van has hidden structural damage?
Doors that no longer close cleanly, a sliding door that binds or drops, uneven gaps between panels, a windshield that cracked without an impact, and water finding its way in at a seam that used to be dry. Any of those after even a modest impact is worth measuring. On a unibody the structure is the body, so a symptom that presents as a fit or leak problem is frequently a structural one.
Awning Repair and Replacement
Can awning fabric be replaced without replacing the whole awning?
Yes, and it is the most common awning job. Fabric is a wear item with a five to eight year life in Southern California sun and it can be replaced on the existing roller and arms provided both are sound. What makes fabric-only replacement a false economy is worn roller bearings or a weak spring, because new fabric on a tired mechanism will not tension correctly and will flap and wear prematurely.
My awning arm is bent. Is that repairable?
Sometimes. A modest bend in an aluminium arm can be straightened, but aluminium work-hardens and an arm that has been bent and straightened is weaker than it was. On a load-bearing awning arm we generally recommend replacement, because the failure mode of an arm that lets go under wind load is the awning coming down on the side of the coach and taking bodywork with it.
Why does my powered awning stop halfway?
Usually a sensor or a limit switch rather than the motor. Powered awnings use wind sensors, position sensors and limit switches, and any of them reporting incorrectly will stop travel as a protective measure. It can also be low voltage, since a motor that is being fed poorly will stall under load and read as a mechanical fault. Diagnosis before parts, on this one especially.
How much does awning replacement cost?
Fabric only is $400 to $1,200. Fabric with roller and hardware is $900 to $2,200. An arm and mechanism repair is $700 to $2,500. A full powered awning replacement is $2,000 to $4,500 depending on width and features. Wider awnings and powered systems with sensors sit at the top of those ranges.
Can you fit an awning to a van conversion or food truck?
Yes. Awnings on conversions and mobile business vehicles frequently need a mounting rail fabricated and bonded or bolted to the body, because unlike a factory coach there is no rail already there. That is a fabrication job as much as an awning job, and the mounting has to be engineered for the load rather than screwed to a skin.
Flooring Repair and Replacement
What is the best flooring for an RV?
Luxury vinyl tile or plank for most applications. It is light, waterproof, dimensionally stable across the temperature swings a parked coach sees, and it can be replaced in sections. Sheet vinyl is lighter and cheaper with fewer seams to fail. Carpet is warm and quiet and holds moisture, which is why it is disappearing from coaches. Laminate and engineered wood look excellent and are less tolerant of moisture and of the humidity swings inside a closed vehicle.
My floor feels soft. Is that just the flooring?
No. Flooring itself does not go soft. A soft floor is a subfloor problem, which means the panel underneath has delaminated or rotted, usually from water. Replacing the surface over a soft subfloor produces a floor that looks new and still feels wrong, and the rot underneath keeps progressing. The subfloor has to be opened and assessed.
How much does RV flooring cost?
Surface replacement alone runs $750 to $4,000 depending on the size of the coach and the material. Add subfloor replacement and it becomes $3,000 to $8,000. Where framing under the subfloor has rotted it reaches $8,000 to $12,000 and beyond, because at that point it is structural work rather than flooring work.
Can you replace flooring under slide-outs and cabinets?
Under slides yes, and it is standard practice to run flooring through the slide opening so there is no seam at the room edge, since a seam there gets worked every time the room moves. Under cabinets, usually we cut to the cabinet rather than removing them, unless the cabinets are coming out anyway or unless there is water damage under them, which there frequently is.
How long does it take?
Surface only is two to five days. With subfloor replacement it is one to three weeks. With framing repair it is three to six weeks. Emptying the coach, removing furniture and pulling anything fixed adds time at the front of every one of those.
Hidden Damage Assessment
Why would I pay for an assessment when I already have an estimate?
Because an estimate written from the outside is a description of what is visible, and on a large vehicle the visible damage is routinely a third of the total. Owners who accept a settlement based on a visual estimate frequently discover the rest during the repair, at which point they are arguing a supplement from a weaker position. An assessment that opens the structure first converts an argument into a documented fact.
What do you actually do during an assessment?
Depending on scope: remove trim and panels in the impact zone and on the opposite side, put the chassis on the rack and measure against factory specification, moisture-meter the walls and floor along suspected intrusion paths, inspect wiring in any compressed cavity, cycle slide-outs and doors under observation, and photograph every step. You get the photographs and the findings whether or not you have the repair done here.
Will the assessment cost come off my repair?
Yes. Assessments start at $150 and in-depth work is billed at the diagnostic rate of $285 per hour, and the full amount is credited back against an authorized repair. If the assessment finds nothing significant, you have paid a few hundred dollars to know that, which is generally cheaper than the alternative.
Can you assess a vehicle I am thinking of buying?
Yes, and it is one of the more useful things we do. A pre-purchase assessment on a used coach or fifth wheel finds previous improper repair, hidden water damage and frame history that a seller may not know about or may not mention. See our pre-purchase inspection service for how that runs.
My insurer says there is no additional damage. What now?
Ask them to document the basis for that conclusion. An adjuster who has not opened the structure is stating an opinion about something they have not examined. Our assessment produces photographs and measurements, which we submit as a supplement. Carriers respond to documented findings far differently than they respond to a shop asserting that more work is needed.
Paintless Dent Removal
Can paintless dent removal work on an RV?
On the metal parts, yes. Aluminium sidewalls on an Airstream or a similar unit, steel and aluminium panels on vans and box trucks, and metal roof skins all respond well. On fiberglass, filon or moulded caps it does not work at all, because those materials do not have the memory that the technique relies on. Most Class A coaches are a mix, so the answer for a given coach is panel by panel.
What makes a dent unsuitable for paintless repair?
Broken or cracked paint, because the technique cannot restore a finish it does not touch. A sharp crease, which means the metal has stretched rather than deflected. A dent over a brace, a seam or a double-skinned area where there is no access behind the panel. And very large shallow dents on thin aluminium, which sometimes cannot be brought fully flat without oil-canning.
Is it cheaper than conventional repair?
Substantially, usually forty to sixty percent less, because there is no filler, no primer, no paint and no materials cost. It is also faster, days rather than weeks, and it keeps the factory finish intact, which matters for resale on a fleet vehicle and matters a great deal on a vehicle where matching the existing paint would be difficult.
Can you handle hail damage across a whole fleet?
Yes, and fleet hail work is a large part of this service. We assess and document the fleet, work with the carrier on a per-unit basis, and schedule vehicles in batches so the operator is never short more than an agreed number at once. Hail on flat panels is close to the ideal paintless case: many shallow dents, unbroken paint, good access.
How long does it take?
A handful of dents is a day. A hail-damaged van roof and hood is two to four days. A full hail claim across a large vehicle with hundreds of impacts runs one to three weeks. The work is done one dent at a time by hand and there is no way to parallelise it on a single vehicle.
Pre-Purchase Inspection
What does a pre-purchase inspection cover?
Structure and frame, roof and every penetration, sidewalls and delamination survey by tap test and moisture meter, floor for soft spots, all slide-outs cycled under observation, seals throughout, plumbing pressure tested, 12 volt and 120 volt electrical, appliances operated, generator run under load, air conditioning and heating, running gear including brakes and bearings where accessible, and evidence of previous repair. You get written findings with photographs.
Will you tell me whether to buy it?
We will tell you what we found, what it will cost to put right, and what we would be concerned about. The decision is yours, because a coach with $8,000 of known work is a bargain at one price and a mistake at another. What we will not do is give a vague general opinion, because a written list of findings with costs is what actually helps you negotiate.
How long does an inspection take?
Three to eight hours depending on the size and complexity of the vehicle. A travel trailer is at the shorter end, a large Class A with multiple slides and full systems at the longer. We schedule these rather than fitting them in, because a rushed inspection is not worth having.
Can you inspect a vehicle that is not at your shop?
All inspections are performed at the Yorba Linda facility. The equipment that makes an inspection meaningful, moisture meters, a lift, the ability to run systems on shore power and cycle everything, does not travel. Arrange with the seller for the vehicle to be brought here. A seller who will not allow an independent inspection has told you something useful.
What are the most common things you find?
Water damage the seller genuinely did not know about, because it is inside a wall. Previous repair done badly, particularly frame work performed without measurement. Slide-outs that bind because the structure has moved. Roof sealant at end of life. Absorption refrigerators that have been damaged by running off level. And aftermarket electrical work that is unsafe.
Service and Utility Body Installation
Can a service body be moved from an old truck to a new chassis?
Frequently yes, and it is often good economics because a sound body outlasts the chassis under it. What determines feasibility is whether the cab-to-axle dimension matches, whether the mounting points can be adapted, and whether the body is in good enough condition to justify the labor. We assess the body before quoting the swap rather than after.
Why does my service body sit crooked?
Usually mounting rather than the body. Service body mounts settle, fasteners loosen under vibration, and subframe timbers or isolators compress over years. It can also be a frame that has sagged under sustained overload, which is a chassis problem rather than a body problem. Either way it is worth measuring rather than shimming, because shimming a distorted frame hides a structural issue.
How much does service body work cost?
A toolbox or accessory installation is $1,500 to $4,000. Body repair is $2,000 to $7,000. A body swap onto a new chassis is $4,500 to $12,000. A new body installation with electrical, lighting and accessories runs $8,000 to $18,000 including the body.
Can you add a crane or compressor to an existing service body?
Yes, and the mounting is the entire job. A crane applies a large moment to the body and through it to the chassis, so it needs a properly engineered mount tied into the frame rather than bolted to the body floor. Compressors and generators need mounting, isolation, electrical integration and adequate ventilation, which is frequently underestimated on an enclosed body.
Do you handle municipal and utility fleet specifications?
Yes. Municipal work frequently comes with specifications covering lighting, marking, equipment mounting and safety features, and the paperwork matters as much as the build. We work to a written specification, document the build, and provide what a fleet manager needs for their records rather than handing back a truck and an invoice.
Detailing and Reconditioning
How often should an RV be detailed?
Wash every four to eight weeks on a vehicle stored outdoors here, and a full detail with protection once or twice a year. The interval that matters most is the protection one, because UV is what degrades the finish and an unprotected surface in Southern California deteriorates measurably within a season. Washing removes contamination, protection is what actually preserves the finish.
Can you remove oxidation from a chalky gelcoat coach?
Usually, and the improvement is dramatic. Gelcoat is thicker than clearcoat so there is material to work with, and heavily chalked surfaces respond well to compounding followed by polishing. Where oxidation has gone through the pigmented layer, correction cannot recover it and refinishing is the answer. We assess and tell you which situation you are in before starting.
How much does RV detailing cost?
A wash and interior clean is $500 to $1,200. A full detail with protection is $1,200 to $3,000. Oxidation removal and restoration is $2,000 to $6,500 depending on size and condition. Detail labor is $95 per hour, which is our lowest rate.
Do you detail fleet vehicles?
Yes, and fleets usually benefit from a programme rather than one-off work. Scheduled cleaning on a rotation keeps vehicles presentable without taking several off the road at once, and it preserves resale value, which on a fleet turning over regularly is worth more than the cost of the programme.
What is the difference between detailing and paint correction?
Detailing cleans and protects the surface as it is. Paint correction removes a measured amount of clearcoat to level defects below the surface. Detailing is repeatable indefinitely. Correction removes material permanently and can only be done a limited number of times. Most vehicles need detailing regularly and correction rarely.
DOT Reflective Marking and Compliance Graphics
What are the DOT conspicuity tape requirements?
Federal rules require red and white retroreflective sheeting on the rear and along the lower sides of most trailers and heavy vehicles, applied in a specified pattern and within specified height ranges, plus white sheeting across the upper rear corners. The detail matters: correct alternating pattern, correct coverage of the available length, and correct mounting height. Partial or damaged tape is a violation even when tape is present, which is why replacement rather than patching is the right approach.
How large do USDOT numbers have to be?
They must be readable from 50 feet in daylight, contrast sharply with the background, and appear on both sides of the power unit. The legal name or trade name of the operating carrier must appear with the number. The common failures are lettering that has faded to low contrast, and vehicles that have changed carriers with old markings still visible underneath.
Can you remove old carrier markings?
Yes, and it matters more than people think. A vehicle displaying two carriers' markings, or ghost outlines of a previous carrier, creates confusion at roadside inspection and can create liability questions after an incident. Removal includes taking off the adhesive residue and addressing any ghosting where the surrounding paint has faded around the old graphic.
How much does compliance marking cost?
Conspicuity tape on a trailer is $250 to $700. USDOT numbering and carrier identification is $250 to $600 per vehicle. Full compliance marking including tape, numbering and placarding is $600 to $1,500. Fleet programmes are quoted per unit with volume scheduling.
Do you do hazmat placarding and emergency vehicle marking?
Yes. Hazmat placard holders and placarding, emergency vehicle chevron and conspicuity marking, municipal identification, and specialty reflective schemes for utility and roadside vehicles. Emergency and roadside vehicles frequently have their own specifications beyond the federal minimum, and we work to whatever specification the agency provides.
Panel Replacement
Should I repair or replace a damaged panel?
Repair while the damage is confined and the substrate behind it is sound. Replace when damage exceeds roughly sixty percent of the panel, when there are multiple separate damage zones, when the panel has been repaired before, or when it is creased rather than dented. Repair keeps original bonding at every edge. Replacement introduces a new joint on each one, and every joint is a potential leak path for the rest of the vehicle's life.
What if my panel is discontinued?
We fabricate. On coaches more than about ten years old, discontinued is the normal case rather than the exception. A mould taken from the surviving panel or the mirrored panel on the opposite side gives us the geometry, and we lay up a replacement in fiberglass or form one in aluminium or steel depending on the original.
How much does panel replacement cost?
A small aluminium or steel panel on a van or truck is $900 to $2,500. A coach sidewall panel is $2,500 to $7,500. A large section or a cap is $7,500 to $15,000 and beyond, plus the panel itself. Labor is $210 per hour and parts over $100 carry 35 percent markup. Made to order panels require a non-refundable deposit because they cannot be returned.
Will I be able to see where the new panel joins?
Not if it is finished properly. The joint is faired flush and the paint is blended into the adjacent panels rather than butted at the seam. On a vehicle whose existing finish has faded unevenly, blending is what makes a replacement invisible, and skipping it is what makes a replacement obvious in raking light.
How long does it take?
A small van or truck panel is three to seven days. A coach sidewall panel is two to four weeks. A cap on a Class A is six to twelve weeks and most of that is waiting for the panel rather than fitting it, because factory caps are frequently made to order with lead times in months.
Upholstery Repair and Replacement
Is it cheaper to reupholster or replace RV furniture?
Reupholster, in most cases, and it usually produces a better result too. RV furniture is built to fit a specific space and frequently incorporates storage, a sleeping function or a slide mechanism. A replacement sofa has to fit an opening that was designed around the original, and aftermarket RV furniture is often lower quality than what came out. Where the frame is sound, recovering it is both cheaper and better.
What fabric holds up best in an RV?
Solution-dyed acrylic and marine-grade vinyl for anything exposed to sun through a window, because UV through glass destroys ordinary upholstery fabric quickly. Performance fabrics with a good rub count for high-traffic seating. Leather looks excellent and needs conditioning in a dry climate or it cracks. We will point you at fabrics that survive rather than fabrics that photograph well.
Can you match the original fabric on a partial repair?
Rarely, and it is worth knowing up front. Fabrics are discontinued quickly and the existing material has faded in sunlight, so new material in the original pattern will not match its neighbours. On a partial job we usually recommend recovering a complete matching set, cushions and all, rather than one piece, so everything ages together from the same starting point.
How much does RV upholstery cost?
Recovering a dinette is $600 to $1,800. A sofa or theatre seat set is $1,500 to $4,500. A full coach interior is $5,000 to $12,000. Custom-built furniture is quoted per piece. Fabric choice moves those numbers substantially, since performance and marine-grade materials cost several times what a standard upholstery fabric does.
Do you do commercial vehicle seating?
Yes. Driver and crew seating in trucks, buses, ambulances and municipal vehicles, including repairs to worn bolsters and torn seams that would otherwise mean replacing an expensive air-ride seat. Commercial seating is a durability job rather than a decorative one, and the material choice reflects that.
Bumper Repair and Replacement
Can a plastic bumper cover be repaired or does it need replacing?
Most cracks and tears in a thermoplastic cover can be repaired by welding the plastic and reinforcing behind, then refinishing. It holds up well and costs substantially less than replacement. Replacement makes more sense when the cover is torn across a mounting boss, when there are multiple separate damage areas, or when the plastic has become brittle with age and UV exposure, which happens to covers on vehicles stored outdoors in California.
My motorhome bumper is also the hitch mount. Does that change the repair?
Yes, significantly. Once a bumper carries a tow rating it is a structural component and the repair has to restore that rating rather than restore the appearance. That means proper structural welding, verification that the mounting points are square and sound, and in some cases replacement rather than repair because a repaired rating cannot be certified. We will tell you which situation you are in rather than making it look right and handing it back.
Can you fabricate a bumper for a vehicle where nothing is available?
Yes. Fabricating a steel or aluminium bumper to the original geometry, or to an improved design, is routine here, particularly on older coaches, bus conversions and overland builds. Fabrication also lets us integrate a receiver, recovery points, lighting or a tire carrier into the same structure rather than bolting accessories on afterwards.
How much does bumper work cost?
A plastic cover repair and refinish is $500 to $1,400. A bumper replacement on a van or truck is $1,200 to $3,500 including the part. A heavy-duty or structural bumper on a commercial vehicle is $2,500 to $6,000. A custom fabricated bumper runs $3,500 to $8,500 depending on design and integrated features.
Does bumper damage mean there is damage behind it?
Often, and it is worth checking. A bumper is designed to absorb energy and pass what it cannot absorb into the structure behind. Bent mounting brackets, a deformed crash bar, a cracked frame horn or a shifted rail are all common behind a bumper that looks only moderately damaged. We inspect behind every bumper we remove rather than fitting a new one over whatever is back there.
Headlight Restoration
Why do headlight lenses go yellow and cloudy?
Polycarbonate lenses are protected by a factory hard coat that blocks UV. That coat degrades over years of sun exposure and once it fails the polycarbonate underneath oxidises, which produces the yellow haze. Southern California accelerates this considerably compared with milder climates, and horizontal or steeply raked lenses fail faster than upright ones because they take more direct sun.
Does restoration last or does it come back?
It depends entirely on whether a new UV protective coating is applied afterwards. Sanding and polishing alone removes the oxidation and leaves bare unprotected polycarbonate, which will haze again within months. A proper restoration finishes with a UV clear coat, which typically gives two to four years. The cheap versions of this service skip the coating, which is why people believe restoration does not last.
Is it worth restoring or should I just replace the headlights?
Restore, in most cases. Restoration is a fraction of replacement cost, and on older coaches and commercial vehicles replacement units are frequently discontinued or very expensive. Replacement makes sense when the lens is cracked, when moisture has got inside the housing, or when the reflector coating behind the lens has degraded, because none of those are fixable from outside.
How much does headlight restoration cost?
A standard pair is $250 to $500. Large commercial or coach units are $400 to $900. A full fleet programme is quoted per unit. Where the housing has moisture ingress or the reflector has failed, replacement is the answer rather than restoration.
Can you do this across a fleet?
Yes, and it is one of the better value fleet services. It improves night visibility across every vehicle, it is inexpensive per unit, it improves how the fleet looks, and on a DOT inspection a hazed headlight producing inadequate output is a finding. We schedule fleet work in batches so vehicles are off the road minimally.
Vehicles
Grouped by topic. Each block links through to the full page, which covers the process, the price range and the labor hours behind it.
Class A Motorhome Repair
How much does it cost to replace a front cap on a Class A?
Labor runs $4,500 to $25,000 depending on the coach and what the cap is attached to, and the cap itself is separate. A factory cap for a current model runs several thousand dollars and is frequently made to order with a lead time in months. On coaches more than about ten years old the cap is usually discontinued, at which point we fabricate one, and fabrication is sometimes faster than ordering.
Is repairing a damaged cap better than replacing it?
Usually, below about sixty percent damage. A repaired cap keeps its original bonding and sealing at every edge, where a replacement introduces a new sealed joint on each one and every joint is a future leak path. Replacement wins when damage covers most of the panel, when there are several separate damage zones, or when the cap is distorted rather than damaged.
What is different about a gas Class A versus a diesel pusher?
The chassis. A gas Class A has a front-mounted engine on a purpose-built chassis with hydraulic brakes and usually leaf or coil suspension. A diesel pusher has a rear engine, air brakes, air suspension and a considerably heavier chassis. The house side is broadly similar. The chassis side needs different equipment, including a frame rack rated for the weight.
My Class A slide-out binds. Is that the motor?
Probably not. A slide that binds is usually reporting that the opening is no longer square, from a collision, a soft floor under the room, or a frame that has twisted. Replacing the motor gives you a new motor stalling against the same load. We check the structure first, which costs more on day one and saves replacing motors repeatedly.
Diesel Pusher Motorhome Repair
What is a diesel pusher and how is it different?
A diesel pusher has its engine at the rear rather than the front, on a heavy purpose-built chassis with air brakes and air suspension rather than hydraulic brakes and steel springs. Practically that means a considerably heavier vehicle, different service access, different failure modes on the chassis side, and frequently a hydronic heating system rather than a propane furnace.
My coach sags overnight. Is that the air suspension?
Usually yes, and it is a leak somewhere in the air system: a bag, a valve, a fitting or a line. Finding it is methodical rather than difficult. It can also be the leveling system leaking down internally past a cylinder seal, which produces a similar symptom, so the first job is establishing which system is losing.
What is AquaHot and can you service it?
AquaHot and similar hydronic systems provide both space heating and domestic hot water from one diesel-fired or electric heat source circulating through heat exchangers. Yes, we service them. They are more capable than a propane furnace and more complex to diagnose, because a fault can be in the burner, the circulation pumps, the zone valves or the control logic.
Can you straighten the frame on a diesel pusher?
Yes. It requires a rack rated for the chassis weight, which is where most shops that decline this work actually stop. The procedure is the same as any chassis: measure against factory specification in three planes, teardown for access, pull in increments with re-measurement between, then re-measure and document.
Class C Motorhome Repair
Why is my over-cab bunk leaking?
Because it has more seams, more transitions and more direct exposure than any other part of the coach. The bunk is a moulded structure joined to the cab and to the coach body, so there are joints at the front, at both sides and where it meets the roof, all of them sealed and all of them ageing in Southern California sun. It is the first place to check on any Class C with a water complaint.
What is the difference between Class C and Super C?
The chassis. A Class C is built on a cutaway van chassis, typically Ford E-Series or Chevrolet Express, with the original van cab retained. A Super C is built on a medium duty truck chassis such as a Freightliner or International, which is much heavier, higher capacity and better suited to towing. The coach body construction is similar. The chassis under it is a different vehicle.
Can you repair the cab section as well as the coach?
Yes, and it is one of the complications of a Class C. The front is a factory van cab and the rear is a coach body, joined at a transition. Damage frequently crosses that join, which means automotive repair techniques on the cab, coach techniques on the body, and careful work at the transition where the two structures meet and move differently.
How much does Class C collision repair cost?
A panel repair with blend is $1,200 to $4,000. Cab and body damage crossing the transition is $6,000 to $25,000. Structural repair with chassis involvement is $15,000 to $60,000. Over-cab bunk rebuild after water damage is $4,000 to $14,000 depending on how far it has gone.
Class B Camper Van Repair
Is a Class B the same as a camper van?
Effectively yes. Class B is the RV industry classification for a coach built inside a factory van body rather than on a stripped chassis. Whether it came from Winnebago, Roadtrek, Airstream or a custom builder, the repair considerations are the same: a unibody van shell with a conversion inside it.
Why does repairing a Class B cost more than repairing an empty van?
Because structural repair on a unibody requires access to the inside of the shell, which means removing the conversion. Cabinetry, insulation, wall panels, wiring, plumbing, water tanks, solar controllers and battery banks all come out, get stored, and go back. On a well-built conversion that labor can approach the cost of the structural work itself.
Can you repair the conversion as well as the van?
Yes, and that is the point of bringing it here rather than to an automotive body shop. Body and structure, then cabinetry, electrical, solar, plumbing and heating all under one roof. A shop that repairs the shell and hands the interior back to you unfinished has done half a job.
Do Class B vans need ADAS recalibration after repair?
Frequently yes, because they inherit the donor chassis driver assistance systems. A Sprinter or Transit based Class B has the same forward cameras, radar and lane keeping as the commercial version, and any repair affecting a sensor mounting or the windshield requires recalibration. Many Class B owners are unaware their coach has these systems at all.
Bus Conversion and Skoolie Repair
Can you work on a converted school bus?
Yes, and skoolies are a regular part of the work here. The considerations are that the vehicle was converted rather than manufactured, so structure has frequently been modified, roof raises are common and are a structural change, and much of what is on the vehicle was fabricated rather than bought. That suits a shop with fabrication capability and frustrates a shop without one.
My conversion has a roof raise. Does that complicate repair?
Significantly. A roof raise cuts every vertical structural member and rejoins them higher, which means the quality of that work determines the structural integrity of the whole vehicle. We inspect roof raise joints on any conversion that comes in, because a poorly executed raise is a structural problem that will not announce itself until something loads it.
Do you do full vintage coach restorations?
Yes. There is a 1959 Flxible in the shop as this is written. Vintage restoration means fabricating panels that have not been manufactured for fifty years, rebuilding structure while retaining original character, and doing systems work invisibly behind period-correct finishes. It is slow work and it is some of the most satisfying here.
How much does bus conversion work cost?
Body and panel work is $2,000 to $12,000. Structural repair is $6,000 to $40,000. A full repaint on a bus is $12,000 to $35,000. A complete conversion build-out is $40,000 to $150,000 and beyond. Vintage restorations are quoted after assessment because no two are alike.
Insurance
Grouped by topic. Each block links through to the full page, which covers the process, the price range and the labor hours behind it.
25 Things Insurance Companies Do Not Tell You
Which of these costs owners the most money?
Accepting a settlement before teardown. On a large vehicle the visible damage is routinely a third of the total, so a figure agreed from a walk-around is almost always short. Once you have accepted and signed, reopening it is far harder than getting it right initially. The second most expensive is undocumented aftermarket work, which routinely represents a large fraction of a converted vehicle value and gets settled at nothing.
Is my insurer allowed to tell me which shop to use?
It can recommend. It cannot require. California Insurance Code section 758.5 gives you the right to select your own repair facility and prohibits a carrier from conditioning payment on you using its preferred shop. If you are being pressured after naming your shop, saying that section number out loud usually ends the conversation.
How do I stop my claim from stalling?
Document everything and put it in writing. Claims stall in ambiguity: an adjuster who has not seen photographs of what was found, a supplement described in a phone call, a question that was asked verbally and never answered. Every piece of documentation you or your shop can put in the file removes somewhere the claim can get stuck.
Should I use a public adjuster?
Sometimes, on large or contested claims. A public adjuster works for you rather than the carrier and takes a percentage of the settlement. On a straightforward claim being handled by a shop that documents properly, the value is limited. On a disputed total loss or a large complex claim where you are getting nowhere, it can be worth it. We have no financial relationship either way.
How an RV Insurance Claim Actually Works
Who decides what my repair costs?
Ultimately the documented scope does. The adjuster writes an initial estimate, the shop writes a scope based on what teardown reveals, and the two are reconciled through supplements. Where they disagree, the deciding factor is nearly always evidence: photographs, measurements and manufacturer procedure documentation carry the argument in a way that a shop opinion does not.
What is a direct repair program?
An arrangement between a carrier and a shop, where the shop agrees pricing and process in exchange for referral volume. It is convenient and it means the shop has a commercial relationship with the party paying. That is not automatically bad, and it is worth knowing about. You are not required to use one.
Can I get paid out and not repair the vehicle?
Usually yes on a first-party claim, though your carrier may withhold a portion until repair is verified, and a lienholder will generally require the repair to be done. Be aware that unrepaired damage is disclosed at sale and reduces value by considerably more than the settlement usually covers.
Who pays my deductible?
You do, to the shop, at the point of repair. If the other party is found at fault and their carrier accepts liability, your deductible is generally recovered through subrogation and refunded to you afterwards, which can take months.
Supplements and Denied Claims
Why did my repair cost go up after work started?
Because teardown found damage that was not visible from outside. On a large vehicle this is expected rather than exceptional, since the structure sits behind a bonded shell. What should not happen is discovering it without documentation, which is why we photograph at teardown before ordering anything, so what was found is recorded in sequence and there is nothing to dispute.
My carrier denied the supplement. What now?
First establish the stated reason, in writing. Denials fall into a few categories: not related to the covered loss, pre-existing, betterment, or not a necessary operation. Each has a different response. Related-cause denials are answered with evidence of the damage path. Necessary-operation denials are answered with manufacturer procedure documentation. Both are winnable with paper.
Can a carrier deny my whole claim?
Yes, on grounds such as an excluded cause, late reporting, a policy lapse or misrepresentation. Get the denial in writing with the specific policy language relied on. From there the options are internal appeal with additional evidence, a complaint to the California Department of Insurance, or legal advice. Many denials are reversed at the appeal stage when new documentation is supplied.
How long should a supplement take to approve?
Days to a few weeks in practice. What extends it is anything the adjuster has to go and verify, which is why supplements submitted with comprehensive photographs and measurements move faster than supplements described in a phone call. A re-inspection adds a week or more each time it is needed.
Total Loss and Repair Versus Replace
What percentage makes a vehicle a total loss in California?
California does not fix a single statutory percentage for every situation. Carriers apply their own threshold, commonly in the range of 70 to 80 percent of actual cash value, and salvage title requirements bring in separate criteria. What matters practically is that the threshold is applied to two estimated numbers, repair cost and actual cash value, and both are contestable.
How is actual cash value calculated on an RV?
Usually from comparable sales data adjusted for mileage, condition and options. That method works reasonably for mass-market cars where hundreds of comparable sales exist. On coaches the data is thin, condition varies enormously between two units of the same model year, and aftermarket work is routinely valued at nothing. Understated valuations are common and they are the input most worth challenging.
Can I keep my RV after a total loss settlement?
Usually yes, by retaining the salvage. The carrier deducts the salvage value from the settlement and you keep the vehicle with a branded title. On a custom build or a coach with substantial aftermarket work this is frequently better economics than the settlement, because the market undervalues the build and you know what it actually cost.
My frame is bent. Is that automatically a total loss?
No. Frame damage sounds catastrophic and is repairable far more often than owners are told. A chassis straightened back to factory specification and verified by measurement is structurally sound for the life of the vehicle. Whether the insurer totals it is an economic decision about repair cost against value, not a judgement that the vehicle cannot be fixed.
What evidence actually works to contest a total loss?
A measured repair figure from a shop equipped to do the work, comparable listings for vehicles in your specification and condition, and documentation of aftermarket work with receipts. Opinions do not move a determination. Numbers with paper behind them do, because the adjuster has to justify the file to a reviewer and evidence gives them something to justify it with.
How Long an RV Insurance Claim Takes
Why is my RV repair taking so long?
Almost always one of three things: waiting on carrier approval of the scope, waiting on a supplement decision, or waiting on a part. Coach body panels are frequently made to order by the manufacturer with lead times measured in months, and no shop can shorten a factory queue. A shop that will not tell you which of the three you are waiting on is the actual problem.
How long does carrier approval take?
Three days to four weeks in practice, and it is the least predictable stage. What extends it is anything requiring re-inspection, which is why supplements submitted with comprehensive photographs move faster than supplements described over the phone. Each re-inspection adds roughly a week.
Can I speed up my claim?
Some of it. Report promptly, get the vehicle to a repair facility rather than a storage yard, supply your documentation and receipts up front, respond to adjuster requests the day you receive them, and put things in writing so nothing is waiting on a phone call being returned. What you cannot speed up is a manufacturer lead time.
What is a realistic total timeline?
A cosmetic single panel repair is two to three weeks. A multi-panel repair with paint is four to eight weeks. A structural repair with carrier involvement is eight to sixteen weeks. A full rebuild on a large coach can exceed six months. Those ranges assume a normally functioning claim, and a contested one adds to all of them.
Aftermarket and Custom Build Coverage
Is my solar and lithium system covered by my RV policy?
Only if it is declared and documented, and frequently only up to a sub-limit that is lower than you expect. Standard policies cover the vehicle as manufactured. Permanently installed additions may fall under a customisation or custom equipment provision with a cap, commonly a few thousand dollars, which on a substantial off-grid system is a fraction of the actual value. Check your specific limit rather than assuming.
How do I prove what was in my build?
Photographs and receipts, kept somewhere other than in the vehicle. Photograph every cabinet, the electrical panel, the battery bank, the controller, the inverter, the water system and the heater, including labels and model numbers. Keep the build invoice if it was professionally converted and receipts for anything added afterwards. This takes an afternoon and it is the difference between covered and not.
Does a lift kit or custom bumper affect my claim?
It can, in two ways. The modification itself needs to be declared and covered or it is settled at nothing. And repair on a modified vehicle costs more, because a frame has to be measured against a specification that assumes a factory configuration, and structural work frequently requires the modification to be removed for access. Both are legitimate costs and both need documenting to be paid.
Should I tell my insurer about a van conversion?
Yes, and it matters more than most owners realise. A cargo van converted to a camper is a materially different vehicle from the one on the policy: different value, different use, different risk. Failing to declare it can give a carrier grounds to reduce or deny a claim on the basis of misrepresentation, which is a considerably worse outcome than paying a slightly higher premium.
Question not answered here?
We work on all years, all makes and all classes, from Class A diesel pushers down to enclosed cargo trailers. Estimates are $150 and are credited back against an authorized repair, so the money goes toward the work rather than to a shop that never touches your vehicle.
23281 La Palma Ave, Yorba Linda, CA 92887 | (949) 799-3387